July 28 - August 2, 1961 - France

FRIDAY JULY 28, 1961 - LABOUHEYRE, FRANCE

France sure is out to skin the Americans. A room & 1/2 dz. beer & 2 cheese sandwiches $5.00. Met 3 G.I.‘s here & boy do they hate the French. After last night I could see why. The hotel owner asked them to pay their bill before going to bed but did not ask anyone else.   Truck & car accident ahead, quite a big tie up, car smashed to bus. truck is in the ditch. Everyone hurt don‘t know the cause. Spent the eve with G.I.‘s. Had a nice time.  Drove most of the day through France. Left Bordeaux, Nantes, Chateaubriant, Vitré, Caen. We slept at Vitré, good bed and meals, old hotel. However it was clean. Picked up hitchhiker at Nantes & he stayed with us until Vitré, English lad. I was quite sick all day. Lots of gas & stomach pain. Felt better toward evening. Had a good dinner. Bought fruit for the road.

SATURDAY JULY 29, 1961 - NORMANDY, FRANCE

Here we are at Normandy & Avranches where the Normand invasion took place on June 4th, 1944. Some of the barges, cannons etc. are still here plus the Mulberry Harbor. “D” Day 6-4-1944. We are spending the night here. My camera fell and won’t focus anymore so we took it to Bayeux, a small town 5 miles inland. It will be ready tomorrow. Hope it‘s something they can repair. There’s also a museum here, which gives the history of the whole invasion, mostly with movies.

While in town with the camera we met an English man who runs the camera shop. He invited us into his back room for a beer or what have you??  We had... beer (E.W. Gunton). Our room here (F850), dinner wasn‘t bad, meat a bit tough, the rest OK. Tried to buy some antiques in a small town. She wanted a bit too much. Stayed at a small hotel on the beach, not bad, fair food, nice people.

SUNDAY JULY 30, 1961 - BAYEAUX to PARIS,FRANCE

Dropped my camera so I took it to a camera shop for repairs. My lens was broken & they couldn‘t replace them. So the man without asking loaned me one. He didn‘t even ask our name but we gave it to him. I don ‘t know what good it would do if we once left the country. But he trusted us, so we’ll return it along with a bag of corn for popping. We visited Amalia beachhead also. The American cemetery here is kept very beautifully (Omaha Beach). Thousands of our boys lie here. There’s a lovely small chapel, a memorial etc. All crosses that mark the graves are of white marble. Took some shots & picked up 2 boys, one from Texas  & one from Sweden & dropped them off at Avranches. Now we‘re heading for Paris & Papa is resting by the roadside. We checked into the Palace hotel on the Left Bank. Not bad.

MONDAY JULY 31, 1961- PARIS, FRANCE

Got a room, got cleaned up & walked for a while. Later had dinner, not so hot. stopped into a beer garden & had some beer. Went for mail & as usual there was none. Guess no one loves me. Met some people at American Express from Newport Beach. Had a nice chat & got a client for Dr. Bill.   11:00 PM went to Les Halles but didn‘t get the thrill that the book writes about. Got 2 qt. beer & went to our room, then beddie.

TUESDAY AUGUST 1, 1961 - PARIS, FRANCE

Decided to go to the Arch deTriumph & again it was closed so we didn‘t get to the top of it. However we did take a few shots then went to the American Embassy about our car & they sent us to the German Embassy. The fellow there said he’d take care of the car papers but we had to go to the hotel & get our car so that he could see it, this we did & here we sit in front of the Embassy waiting for the fellow to come down & look at our car. I can‘t understand why at the American Embassy they employ French people which makes it hard to talk to but at the German Embassy we deal with Germans, how come?? Well anyway our papers were taken care of here & we won‘t need to go back into Germany.  While driving to the embassy we decided to drive past the Eiffel Tower, it has a new coat of paint. Also drove past the Statue of Libertyon the Seine, the twin sister to our statue inthe NY harbor. Later Chas. decided he’d like some “Mussels” for dinner, so we took the Metro to Les Halles & found a French restaurant that had them, so in we went & had a bucketful of mussels, then steak & “pomme fris” & a beer each - good? Talked to a couple of students while here from Koln here on vacation. Both boy & girl are medieval students. After dinner we wandered around Montmartre, then the theatre district & Pigalle etc., the Metro back to the hotel & 3 qts of beer & beddie. Boy I’m tired.

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 2, 1961 - PARIS, FRANCE to YPRES,BELGIUM

A visit to American Express and a letter from ole faithful Carole. I’m almost cracked up to think no one else wrote so far. Only one short note from D.J. Guess if no one misses me. I’ll stay away. Back to the hotel. We paid our bill & checked out, heading for Belgium border & Ypres. Bought fruit on the way & looked at some antiques, too expensive. Came through the Belgium border & didn ‘t even know it. No one even stopped us. Arrived here & checked into an English hotel.  All very nice, clean too. Had a fabulous dinner, in fact we couldn ‘t eat it all. Later at 9 PM walked to the Menin Gate & was present for the “Taps” honoring the dead, a very impressive ceremony. It started to rain so headed for the hotel. Talked to 2 men from London & one from So. Wales, had a few beers & decided to go to bed. Chas. had a head cold.

July 21 - 27, 1961 - Spain

FRIDAY JULY 21, 1961 - LOURDES, FRANCE TO SANSEBASTIAN, SPAIN

We left Lourdes at about noon & headed for the Spanish border. It was a beautiful drive along the mtns. (Pyrenees) & then along the Atlantic Ocean. We reached San Sebastián at about 6 PM. Got a room & decided to rest up a bit & get an early start in the AM.  San Sebastián is a beach town, not unlike Balboa or our own town, very nice & more expensive than it will be further inland. Room, dinner, breakfast. app. $4.00 for 2. Gas 1/2 the price of France or Italy.

SATURDAY JULY 22, 1961 – SANSEBASTIAN, SPAIN

Left here about 10 AM & headed south for Madrid. The roads were good in long spots, but when we hit a bad piece it sure was bad.

Madrid, Spain - Got a nice room with full bath & shower for $2.50 a nite plus $2.50 for meals at “Moderno Hotel”. Took a stroll around town, it was a warm night. Had a beer on our balcony later. Went to American Express, got one letter from Carole. Thank God for Carole. Went shopping for posters, got a fan & a bota. Got caught up on lots of rest & letters. Dad ‘s having a ball taking me all around town in cabs (costs about 25 cents a ride with tip, shorter trip run about 18 cents).

SUNDAY JULY 23, 1961 - MADRID, SPAIN

Today the 3 of us (Paul our new friend) started out for the “flea market”. On our way down we took in “Old Madrid”.  Then about 3 hours of the open market. Everything is sold here that one can imagine. 

Later lunch then the bull-fights. These were amateurs but a couple of good ones. One horse was badly injured; one picador with a broken leg & every horse was knocked over by the bulls in all 6 bouts. Later dinner 10 PM & a walk around town with friends.

MONDAY JULY 24, 1961 - MADRID, SPAIN

Took a trip through the Palace Real. It‘s very beautiful but like all other palaces in other countries full of art, paintings, gold, silver, crystal, china, etc. Had trouble at American Express because of mail cost transfer. Had lunch, very good. Bought 3 bullfight posters to take home, some soap & hair cream for Dad, an umbrella for remembrance of Madrid. Dad‘s having a ball tipping (5 peseta bill) they look like dwarf $1.00 bills (worthless 8 cents).  Met some nice people in hotel. She‘s Cuban he‘s a Nashville, Tenn. Jew.  She‘s very nice, we spent some tune chewing the fat (Gilda Martin). Paul, our Sunday guide just called & said he’d be over in the AM to see us before we take off.  A very nice chap (age 21). Almost time for dinner. Walked around town for about 1 ½ hr. with Chas. & Gilda Martin. It was a beautiful evening.

TUESDAY JULY 25, 1961 - MADRID, SPAIN

Paul called for us & took us to the Prado museum. It was very beautiful, full of paintings by many famous artists, Goya, Murillo & others. Can‘t even remember (4 hours here). Later had lunch at hotel.  Paul was our guest. Still later went to park & zoo with my 2 Cuban friends & 3 of their children - 1 a brat. Otherwise a nice afternoon. Now dinner, a hike around several blocks & bed. Chas. went to see some apts. with Mr. Martin. Bed about 1:30 AM.

WEDNESDAY JULY 26, 1961 - MADRID & BURGOS, SPAIN

We leave Madrid this AM. Went on to see Franco’s war memorial but got to see only 1/5th of tour. These Spaniards go to bed from 2-4 & we didn‘t want to hang around a dead town for 2 hours. Saw the outside anyway. We headed for French border but due to bad roads over mtns. & curves we only made Burgos where we spent the night in a Pension. The room was OK, the food not so hot; I’ve still got a sore stomach. (Food poisoning I’m sure.) This town used to be capital. Large cathedral here, castle, etc. (bullring also).

THURSDAY JULY 27, 1961 - BURGOS to PAMPLONA,SPAIN & LABOUHEYRE,FRANCE

Left Burgos about 9:30 AM. We headed for Pamplona. Pamplona Spain is a very nice, clean, quiet, modern town. The bullring was closed but we walked all around it, had a drink, rode around town. We’d like to come back here again during the Festival ofthe Bulls. Left Pamplona & arrived at San Sebastián. Changed some money here, bought gas, had dinner at an English tearoom & Chas. talked the owner out of a bullfight poster that he had in his window. Fights were Sunday. Drove on out of Spain and into France across the border in Hendaye and onto Bayonne, very active town & on through to Labouheyre, France & hopes for a room.

July 18 - 20, 1961 - France

TUESDAY JULY 18, 1961 – NANTUA, FRANCE

We left Nantua & headed south. We passed through the Aragon Forest where I took a shot of a statue in honor of those that lost their lives here in the war. Hot war fought here. Lyon next large town then St. Etienne & Le Puy, where we stopped to change some money.  It’s been raining lightly off & on all day. Come nightfall we pulled into a small town called Chaudes-Aigues, a health resort where people come for treatments for arthritis etc. Hot mineral springs spout water 80 degrees F., several fountains in town where natives draw water in pails, etc. Good room & meals.

WEDNESDAY JULY 19, 1961 - CHAUDES-AIGUES, FRANCE

We left Chaudes-Aigues about 10 AM. The hotel & service was very good & reasonable, clean too. 4 course dinner & breakfast included (F2880). We headed south - Rodez, Albi, Toulouse.  It was a hilly, winding road. Lots of rain & cold. We will make Lourdes tonite & stay over?

Lourdes, France - Well we made it OK & got the last room in town I’m sure. We got dinner then decided to take a walk to the Grotto. This is walking distance from town, so away we went. When we got to the Grotto, thousands of people were streaming ¡n. all carrying candles which were lit. Over the Grotto was sort of a bridge, arch shape & the thousands walked up one side & down the other singing “Ave Maria”.  We joined in. Later, a short mass was said by a couple of cardinals etc. We talked to quite a few Scots from Glasgow here on a pilgrimage along with their pipes & 56 sick or invalids. We will see more of this today. Met many of all these at the public bars later. 

THURSDAY JULY 20, 1961 - LOURDES, FRANCE

Gas $1.04 / gallon - We went back this AM & took a few pictures. It was raining, but the crowds were getting larger by the minute. We got here just after the service for the crippled & sick but we did standby & see them wheeled out. There were no miracle cures and the disappointment on the faces of the sick was great. The Scot got into a mass at the Grotto. We listened for a bit then left. Got a bottle of holy water & 2 candles to take home. More info in booklet we bought.

July 15 - 17, 1961 - Switzerland

SATURDAY JULY 15, 1961 - LAUSANNE, SWITZERLAND

We left Italy up through the mtns. & into Switzerland. On our left we passed by the Matterhorn. It was beautiful high in the clouds & covered with snow. It was raining the road narrow & much of it under construction. We came through the customs OK. We asked to have our passports stamped & they laughed & laughed. Drove around Lake Geneva & into Geneva where we got a room in a tourist house (no hot water). It was late, no choice.

SUNDAY JULY 16, 1961 - GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

We covered the town pretty good. I went window shopping; lots of novelty shops were open. We took some pictures of a beautiful floral clock etc. Got another room, not much better, but the town is streaming with tourists. Prices high for what we did get $3.50 here. Thought of buying a couple of watches, one for Bill & one for Chas. Had tea in an English tearoom - Good too.  Weather quite cold. Rained during the night.

MONDAY JULY 17, 1961 - GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

Still in Geneva but not for long. Chas. is going to get his car serviced then we‘ll blow.  It’s raining again & cool.  We‘re heading for warmer climate, couldn’t stand the rain & cold in Switzerland. We just bought Bill a watch, an automatic with calendar about $45.00 (F175) 21 jewels. Also bought Don a music box & pipe in Heidelberg. Also bought Chas. a watchband, his was broken in half

France - Stopped at a small town of Nantua, had a very nice room & dinner & breakfast all for $38.50 plus 6 bottles of beer for Chas. So good to run across a clean bathroom etc.

July 5 - 14, 1961 - Italy

WEDNESDAY JULY 5, 1961 – UDINE, ITALY

Checked out of Vienna. Had a pleasant surprise when we discovered our hotel bill for 4 nites & for breakfast was only $18.00.  We hit the road for Italy about 10 AM. We drove toward Italy and passed for several hours through the Italian Alps. They were beautiful & we were glad we were in the valley & didn’t have to go over them.  We had no trouble at the Italian border so we headed for Venice knowing we’d never make it.  Dad drove 300 miles today & was tired, so we stopped at the first good sized town, Udine, Italy.  Our room, very beautiful is $5.00 including tips. This is the most we‘ve paid so far but we were due for a bath. We‘ve been bathing in the washbowl & I’m beginning to feel like a bird. Our dinner was good but expensive.  This seems like a prosperous town, lots of new buildings etc. Venice in the AM.

THURSDAY JULY 6, 1961 – VENICE, ITALY

Arrived here about 10 AM from Udine where we spent the night.  We came by way of the Italian Alps.  Our room in Venice was app. $6.00, too high hotel De La Gace.  Venice has no streets so the car costs $1.00 overnite to park.  Venice itself was just as I’ve always pictured in our geography books. Lots of water & gondolas only now it’s very commercial, lots of ferries & cargo boats etc. We took pictures at San Marcos Square & took in the other sights. Several ferry rides & 2 gondola rides. Dad fell getting into one. Our hotel was right on the Grand Canal. Sat outside & had beer & watched the crowd go by.  Bought an Italian straw bag in white for myself, more to carry!

FRIDAY JULY 7, 1961  - VENICE, ITALY to FLORENCE, ITALY 

AM - Drove south on Auto Strata (thruway) from Venice, south to Padova, Rovigo & Bologna. At Bologna we got the thruway to Florence (Firenze). The cost to drive this short way was app. $2.00 or 1200 Lire. We have a nice hotel here “Alberto Firenze“ $2.25 app. – 1,435 Lire. Tomorrow we do the sights & leave for Rome. There’s much to do & see here in Florence. Beautiful art etc.

SATURDAY JULY 8, 1961 – FLORENCE, ITALY

Well we did the arts of Florence until my feet could take no more. We went through the National Galleries & saw many famous works. Also did the Dom & St. Giovanni Cathedral. All very old and full of history. A door here (doors of paradise of gold).  A copy is in Forest Lawn in gold.  Florence is a lovely city but impossible to drive around. Streets are one way & very narrow. Parking is at a premium. There just isn‘t very much of it. Took many shots & will add more here when I get my notes together. Passing along the highway we spotted an American soldiers’ memorial cemetery. So we pulled in & paid our respects. It was a beautiful place just outside of Florence with white marble headstones (crosses).

 We left Florence later & got on the road to Rome. They should give it back to the Romans or someone. I never saw such a crooked, hilly, curved road in my life. We finally got worn out & here we are about 70 miles outside of Rome. We get an early start & get in early, get settled for a few days & some mail from home we hope. Just one month from the day we left. Hope all’s well!

SUNDAY AND MONDAY JULY 9 AND 10, 1961 – ROME, ITALY

We took in St. PetersCathedral.  It‘s just about the greatest there is. We spent most of Sunday here, even stayed for Vespers. It was very nice & we both enjoyed it.  At least a dozen priests etc. officiated.  

Saw:

1.     St. Peterschair (high alter)

2.    Pillar, which is said Jesus leaned against when he preached.

3.    The stone on which St. Peter built his church. Surrounded with oil lamp.

4.    Two popes dead over 100 years in glass enclosed caskets interned in alters in the cathedral (catacombs).

5.    The spot where Christ stood when he spoke to Peter and said “Thou art Peter, & over this stone I shall build my church & I shall give thee the keys of the kingdom of heaven “

6.    There are keys infloor entrance of church.

7.    Took a trip up to the Cupola. Wandered around the top of St. Peters & took some shots of city & statues gracing the roof.

8.    Went through the catacombs& caves under St. Peters where all the ex-popes are buried in large exposed vaults (like a mausoleum). Dates way back to the very beginning & took shots of the Swiss guards that guard the entrance.  All guards are “Swiss” and all over 6 feet tall.  Went to American Express & got one letter from Carole - sure glad to hear from home!  Mailed lots of cards etc. Lots of hot weather here & lots of tourists.

TUESDAY JULY 11, 1961 - VATICAN CITY & ROME, ITALY

Visited the Vaticanmuseum. One can easily see why all the poverty exists in Italy. The riches, jewels, priceless arts & etc. lay here ¡n the Vatican City museum. Saw the following that I can remember. There‘s really too much to remember in a 1-3 hr. trip: Sistine Chapel, Vatican Picture Gallery, Egyptian Museum (1/2 dz. mummies ages old), the Borgia Apts. 6 rooms decorated by Alexander VI, Borgia – Pinturicchio, Raphael’s Loggias, Nativity – Epiphany, Baptism of Jesus & Last Supper, Hall of Maps by Danti (1581), Hall of Tapestries containing XVI century tapestries (famous one of Leonardo‘s Last Supper). Crowning of the Virgin woven in Brussels after Raphael’s design, Hall of Chariots (see book), etc.

Rome:

1.     Roman Forum

2.    Colosseumruins

3.    Trajan’sForum

4.    Arch of Constantine

5.    Piazza Argentina, The Republican Temples

6.    CastelSant’Angelo

7.    Tiber River (out of St. Peters)

8.    Piazza Colonna

9.    The TreviFountain

10.  Il Duce‘sBalcony

11.   Unknown Soldiers Memorial

12.  VictorEmmanuel II Monument

13.  SpanishSteps

14.  The ImperialFora

15.  Quo Vadis

16.  RomanCatacombs

17.  St. Peter’sBasilica

WEDNESDAY JULY 12, 1961 - VATICAN CITY, ITALY

Went to St. Peters & saw Pope Giovanni give the general public its weekly blessing. Thing that amazed me was the people applauded him like in a theatre instead of a church. He was carried in on a chariot like chair by 12 men, 6 in front & 6 in the rear. Bet St. Peter must turn over in his grave every time this goes on.  Boy is this place ever commercialized. Whoa no wonder there are so many beggars here. Highly overrated.

Rome - We retraced our steps & took some pictures of the Roman ruins. Chas. did have some but my camera was at the hotel.  A word about this hotel, I strongly recommend it to youngsters traveling in Europe.  It’s $1.00 a nite for a bed in a dorm (6-8) a very fine social life within the walled hotel,  good Amer. hots & hamburgers & reasonably priced other foods & car park.  We enjoyed all of this. Our room was more; We had a shower etc. ($4.00).  Casa Del Turista, PalazzoSalviate, Piazza della Rovere #83 - cared for by “nuns”, We bought ice cream for the nuns.

Appian Way - After leaving Rome we headed for the Appian Way. We saw the Basilica “Quo Vadis” where Jesus spoke & appeared to Peter & said “Where goest thou?”  Peter was running away, guess the whole thing was too much, but he came back.  We both stood in the footprints of Jesus now inside of this small Basilica. 

P.S. The Mediterranean Sea is lovely. This makes another for my list.

THURSDAY JULY 13, 1961 - LA SPEZIA, ITALY (Italian Riviera)

1.     After leaving Roma, we headed north to Pisa.  It’s a nice town we got in early enough to get a few shots of the tower & the 2 oldest Basilicas, really beautiful

2.    Carrera (noted for marble) from here we went onto La Spezia on the Italian Riviera where we spent the night.

3.    We walked along the Riviera, it was a lovely night.  All the flowers, trees, shrubs etc. are the same as in So. Calif.  Don’t know where to go tomorrow.

FRIDAY JULY 14, 1961 - MILANO, ITALY

Left La Spezia around 10 AM & headed for Milano. Here we wanted to see the La ScalaOpera & the original Last Supper by Leonardo daVinci, which is painted on the wall of a very old & poor church. We found both plus a few other places of interest. A 14th century Dom, very beautiful windows, about the most beautiful we’ve seen yet. The LeaningTower of Pisa was quite a sight & very beautiful just like we always pictured it. Loads of tourists here. Along the Tower of Pisa were 2 very old 14-15th century cathedrals. These too were very old & beautiful. 

Milano - (gas $1.00 / gal) - The LastSupper by Leonardo daVinci is the one that Forest Lawn in Calif. had copied into a stained glass window. On either wall is a painting the Supper on one & the Crucifixion. When a bomb hit this church during the last war. It hit right down the middle saving both of these rare paintings. The building around them was reconstructed in 1945. We tried to get out of Italy today but didn t quite make it.  We’re about 40 miles from the Swiss border & will be out of here in a couple of hours. Spent the nite in a small hotel on a very beautiful lake. The rent cheap ($2.50) for 2 but Dad makes up the difference in beer. The food not so good, so so.